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Message: [QUOTE="zachvac, post: 638095, member: 26306"] Let's look at the concept of pot odds. If you are 4:1 to win the hand (20%), you win 1 every time you lose 3. When you calculate pot odds, say the pot is 300. Someone else bets 100 into it. The pot is 400, and you have to put 100 in. If you fold, that 100 is yours. If you call, it's not. So if you are paying 100, you need to get at least 100 back including your bet. BUT... in this case you are paying 100 into a 400 pot, meaning you are getting 4:1 on your money if you don't count your bet, 5:1 on your money if you count yours. If the first version is correct, you will break even with the call. If counting yours is correct, you will win making this call. So 1 time you win, 4 times you lose, you win and get 500 (net 400), lose 4 times and win nothing (net -100). It adds up to... 0. The key is that when you win 500, you're not really winning 500, your profit is the pot before you call. I made a recent post about pot equity. This makes pot odds make a lot more sense as well. Same situation, 400 in the pot before your call. If you call you get 500*.2 = 100, or you get your money back, meaning you could fold or call and the same thing happens. Say there was 500 in the pot already. If you call you get .2*600 = 120 and you just have to pay 100 to get 120 back, it's a smart call. With pot equity you can factor in your money in the call, pot odds you can't, because of the concept of pot odds. It's a ratio of loss:win, it would be foolish to use the ratio money won+money paid:money paid. you compare loss:win to money you can win:money you have to pay. Pot equity examines how much of the pot will be yours if you call. That includes the money you put in. Pot odds are easier to do during a game, but equity just makes a lot more sense and whenever I'm confused about pot odds I go back to pot equity and compare the 2. Hope this helped. [/QUOTE]

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