how to play bankroll correctly?

[filippfilm]

I have the same problem . I do not know how to choose a bankroll status ? How many tournaments to play per day so that the quality of the game is not lost . And how many tournaments do I have to win back so that the bankroll gives a plus at a distance ?

 

[jordanbillie]

I have the same problem . I do not know how to choose a bankroll status ? How many tournaments to play per day so that the quality of the game is not lost . And how many tournaments do I have to win back so that the bankroll gives a plus at a distance ?

If you are depositing money and then losing your deposit, you are playing too high of limits and/or need to improve your game.

I think the easiest way to attempt to get on the winning side of tournament play is to focus on your ITM% (in the money percentage). Try to improve this, so you are cashing more often. Focus on getting ITM and then making plays for the win AFTER you are in the money.

With an approach like this, start with the 100 buy-in rule (i.e. $1 MTTs with $100 BR, move up to $5 MTTs with a $500 BR). You should also be playing the CardsChat freerolls to give you the chance at that extra BR boost.

As far as games per day is concerned, that is based on what you can handle from a time perspective. I play about 4 games per day on average. Yes...only 4. I don't have time to "grind" and I have found the grinding mindset to be destructive. I prefer to keep poker fun and to simply play a few games and allow the results to flow in naturally. "Grinding" always felt like I was trying to force winnings into my account, which ultimately led to disappointment (and sometimes anger). Grinding is not fun, what's the point if the fun is gone?

So in summary:

1% of your BR should be your buy-in size

Focus on getting in the money!

Have fun/don't grind!

 

[Zapahlohotrona]

The key is the level of the game. It should always be above the average level of the field. If your level is below the average level of the field, sooner or later you will lose all the money.

 

[ROYALROAD]

Don't go to the "I'm in trouble if I lose" buy-in.
But that's it.

 

[alien666dj]

For proper bankroll management, you need to have at least 100 buyins per limit, play only regular tournaments, not turbo or hyper turbo tournaments, use 1% of the deposit amount, after the session download played hands and analyze played hands for errors for further elimination from the game of found errors.

 

[fundiver199]

These are separate questions. As several have said, a good general rule is to never play a tournament, which cost more than 1% of your bankroll. For single table SnGs this can be increased up to 2% of your bankroll though, because a higher percentage of the field will cash, and there is much less difference between a min-cash and first price money.

As for how many tournaments you can play per day without degrading your performance, that is very individual, so only you can answer that question. If you are sleep deprivated or hungover, maybe the number is zero. But if you are well rested, then with practice it should be possible to play quite a few, if you have nothing else to do for the entire day.

The most important is to be honest with yourself and stop playing, if for whatever reason you are not able to play your A-game or at least B-game. For me one of the things, I look at, is feeling annoyed after losing hands and busting from tournaments. If that is the case, and it last for more than a short moment, typically better to stop the session and find something else to do.

 

[eetenor]

I have the same problem . I do not know how to choose a bankroll status ? How many tournaments to play per day so that the quality of the game is not lost . And how many tournaments do I have to win back so that the bankroll gives a plus at a distance ?

Thank you for posting.

The key to success in poker is to be very focused.
We have to be focused on study and on game play and on bankroll.

The first step I recommend you take is to be focused even here on CardChat.

How would you be more focused in this post?

What buy-in are you playing?
What type of tournament? Turbo? Deep stack? Big field-small field etc All of this matters for a good response from us.

How many tournaments do you play at the same time? 2 4 12? How many hours a day do you play? How many days a week?

As to ROI from tournaments if you are playing in 2000 player fields you can go months before getting a return.
If you make ROI mistakes to min cash instead of stack building you may never get anything but minor returns.

It will help you to be very focused not only will you get more specific answers those answers will help you learn and grow faster.

Hope this helps

 

[LetterRip]

The bankroll you need depends on how many players per tournament and payout structure and your expected return on investment.

Large fields with a top heavy payout require you to have a huge bankroll due to the higher variance. Also you have to 'court variance' to some degree in large fields, otherwise you are likely to mincash, and thus never hit the big scores with a high enough frequency.

You should probably try small field tournaments to establish your skill level faster and see where your mistakes are more quickly, and to get more experience at final tables.

 

[barbados]

It doesn't matter what your bankroll is. What matters is your attitude to the bankroll. If a bankroll is an opportunity for you to purchase something, do it without hesitation. If you want to become a millionaire, be one and use the bankroll as a tool to achieve your goal.

 

[marvinsytan]

easy peasy https://www.cardschat.com/poker-bankroll-management.php

 

[fundiver199]

easy peasy https://www.cardschat.com/poker-bankroll-management.php

Just as a quick comment to that article, having just 50 BIs for tournaments is very aggressive, unless its single table tournaments. And in the later examples they also talk about much higher numbers. Maybe if you are a playing in a purely recreational way, 50 BIs is fine, because you are just playing a few tournaments and mostly to have fun. But then you dont even need a bankroll, and it makes more sense to talk about money management, since the money in your poker account basically just need to last, until you have salary and can afford another deposit.

But for people, who actually want to use bankroll management in the true meaning of the word, buying into MTTs for 2% of your bankroll at a time will put you in high danger of going broke, if you dont move down after losing. Or alternatively you will see massive swings to your bankroll and be constantly moving up and down the stakes. This is because, variance in MTTs is so large, that 50 BI swings are very common and something, everyone should expect to happen regularly. So for me personally 1% is way more reasonable as a simple and general guideline for MTTs than 2%.

 

[jordanbillie]

Just as a quick comment to that article, having just 50 BIs for tournaments is very aggressive, unless its single table tournaments. And in the later examples they also talk about much higher numbers. Maybe if you are a playing in a purely recreational way, 50 BIs is fine, because you are just playing a few tournaments and mostly to have fun. But then you dont even need a bankroll, and it makes more sense to talk about money management, since the money in your poker account basically just need to last, until you have salary and can afford another deposit.

But for people, who actually want to use bankroll management in the true meaning of the word, buying into MTTs for 2% of your bankroll at a time will put you in high danger of going broke, if you dont move down after losing. Or alternatively you will see massive swings to your bankroll and be constantly moving up and down the stakes. This is because, variance in MTTs is so large, that 50 BI swings are very common and something, everyone should expect to happen regularly. So for me personally 1% is way more reasonable as a simple and general guideline for MTTs than 2%.

I disagree with the bolded text above.

This is been the single most important focus of my game improvement (the elimination of the downswing or risk in poker).

I have figured out how to eliminate the dreaded downswing.

My worst 500 game span is winning $2.75 per game. My worst 100 game span is still winning $0.33 per game.

So you see...my "downswings" are just winning less money than "normal."

I understand you are offering general advice on a bankroll related original question, but one should not EXPECT to lose 50 buy-ins...ever! If this is the case, you would be better off focusing on why you are experiencing so much variance and if there is anything you can do about it.

Slow and steady climbing has been the most effective way to win in MTTs (for me).

 

[filippfilm]

I disagree with the bolded text above.

This is been the single most important focus of my game improvement (the elimination of the downswing or risk in poker).

I have figured out how to eliminate the dreaded downswing.

My worst 500 game span is winning $2.75 per game. My worst 100 game span is still winning $0.33 per game.

So you see...my "downswings" are just winning less money than "normal."

I understand you are offering general advice on a bankroll related original question, but one should not EXPECT to lose 50 buy-ins...ever! If this is the case, you would be better off focusing on why you are experiencing so much variance and if there is anything you can do about it.

Slow and steady climbing has been the most effective way to win in MTTs (for me).

I agree with your point of view . Probably it is necessary to smoothly remove all risks and actually play only for getting into prizes. And then play to win .Could you write to me in a personal message your approach to tournaments as you play them for sure I will implement something from this into my game

 

[jordanbillie]

I agree with your point of view . Probably it is necessary to smoothly remove all risks and actually play only for getting into prizes. And then play to win .Could you write to me in a personal message your approach to tournaments as you play them for sure I will implement something from this into my game

Yes, I'd be happy to.

I'll send you a PM later.

 

[filippfilm]

Yes, I'd be happy to.

I'll send you a PM later.

Deal ! I will be very grateful. Thanks !

 

[filippfilm]

Yes, I'd be happy to.

I'll send you a PM later.

Usually it's not a problem to get stacked at the start of a tournament as there are a lot of weak players. Problems just arise later. Many write that you need to play to win, but there is little sense from this; they still move you anyway, no matter how well you play. Therefore, I also come to the conclusion that you just need to pull with all your might to the prize zone in order to play not at a loss and there already play in first place. So it won't be too bad if you get moved.