acky100 said:
c-bet larger on wet boards that you've hit (pot)
c-bet larger vs fish
c-bet smaller when you miss and playing a nit (1/2)
don't c-bet when playing vs loose-aggro and you miss completely (e.g. no draws)
c-bet smallish vs loose/passives if you have a draw (1/2 to 3/5); pot it if you have anything second pair or better; overbet sometimes with your stronger hands
On wet boards that you've completely whiffed and is a big part of villain's range - it depends.
Say for example board is KsQs4d; Villain is a pretty tight nit, and is a somewhat thinking and observant player (lvl 2 thinker). You should fold most of the time vs unobservant players, but vs a lvl 2 player you can represent. If an A, 9 or a spade comes, you can put villain in a very tough spot.
Say you check the flop and he bets. You call. Turn brings the 5 of spades. You check, he bets and you check-raise him to 2.5x. He'll probably call the turn and fold the river to any decent bet.
I don't like c/r all-in here, simply because villain will fold a lot to a river bet, so we lose a lot of value by chasing him out. Even though we really want him out 🙂
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_dogmeat said:
Thanks for the in depth reply, this is what i was a bit unsure of but you've helped clear it up 🙂 What do we do when we miss and the board is dry like 2 5 9 rainbow, and we have like AK, cause lots of the fish think correctly that we have two overcards and missed completely, do we just check fold and only cbet bluff when theres a scarier card on the board like a Q? or does this just depend on their fold to cbet? Thanks
acky100 said:
It depends on their FvCB and their WTSD and W$SD (i.e. if they're a calling station). A lot of the fish also like to float the flop, although they don't really realize they're doing it. Most of the loose/passives like to float the flop and fold to a turn bet. Even a smallish one. Against such an opponent, you can bet 1/2 on the flop and 1/2 on the turn and be done with the hand relatively cheaply if you get called twice.
I don't like checking the turn here, especially IP, because we give villain a chance to blow us of a decent high, which is the best hand a lot of the time. Also, we get a cheap showdown, and we have some folding equity. A lot of FEq, actually. Guess the turn is a scary place for the fish 😀
OOP, it really depends on your read on villain. Flop is an easy bet, and so is turn. But the river gets a little tricky if you get called.
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Here's one.
Assuming the player to your left is neither a nit or a maniac and opens somewhere between 25-30$ of hands OTB what is your opening range from the CO?
Also for anyone who likes to think in terms of equations:
If a=your standard OTB open range
and
b= the player to your left's OTB open range.
and c = your CO opening range factoring in a & b then
How do express c as a f of a & b?
Assuming the player to your left is neither a nit or a maniac and opens somewhere between 25-30$ of hands OTB what is your opening range from the CO?
Also for anyone who likes to think in terms of equations:
If a=your standard OTB open range
and
b= the player to your left's OTB open range.
and c = your CO opening range factoring in a & b then
How do express c as a f of a & b?
Dont think anyones big on the algebra class 🙂
are you meaning, how does someones opening range on the btn affect our oppening range from the Co, or do you mean how does his cold calling range affect our opening range? im not very clued up on this kinda thing if theres someone to my left stopping me opening KTo from the Co then id rather move tables if he constantly calls me and makes playing OOP hard
are you meaning, how does someones opening range on the btn affect our oppening range from the Co, or do you mean how does his cold calling range affect our opening range? im not very clued up on this kinda thing if theres someone to my left stopping me opening KTo from the Co then id rather move tables if he constantly calls me and makes playing OOP hard
acky100 said:
Well, both. In a way, I guess I'm asking this: we open x% of hands from the button and y% from the CO. Assuming everyone at the table was an a 18/16/ 1.5 player with a 4% 3bet rate and a fold to 3bet of 80% how much smaller would your CO range be than your button range?
I dont know where your going with this lol
If everyone at the table was an 18/16 player I wouldnt be there, and if I had an 18/16 to my left who was being a pain in the ass I would leave and find a nit to sit to the right of.
Seriously, I don't think my range would change much initially, but if after a few orbits he was really forcing me to tighten up then I would just leave and find a better seat, the only exception being if I was sat to the left of a big fish that I could be value 3betting/Iso'ing all day long, as long as the guy to my left didnt start....shock horror....adjusting, then I'd stick around.
But after the past few weeks playing less tables and being able to ditch bad ones, I am appreciating table selection a LOT LOT more.
So yeah, the only adjustment I would make there would be to leave as you are really asking how we exploit a TAG reg to our left, and although there are obv ways and means to do so, I would choose not to at 10nl as there really are bigger fish to fry 🙂
If everyone at the table was an 18/16 player I wouldnt be there, and if I had an 18/16 to my left who was being a pain in the ass I would leave and find a nit to sit to the right of.
Seriously, I don't think my range would change much initially, but if after a few orbits he was really forcing me to tighten up then I would just leave and find a better seat, the only exception being if I was sat to the left of a big fish that I could be value 3betting/Iso'ing all day long, as long as the guy to my left didnt start....shock horror....adjusting, then I'd stick around.
But after the past few weeks playing less tables and being able to ditch bad ones, I am appreciating table selection a LOT LOT more.
So yeah, the only adjustment I would make there would be to leave as you are really asking how we exploit a TAG reg to our left, and although there are obv ways and means to do so, I would choose not to at 10nl as there really are bigger fish to fry 🙂
hmm, in response to your question fx i dont think im good enough to know what the hell i would do haha! When this does happen and i stay at the table (i'd need a reason too) im still opening the same range from the Co as i expect him to fold a lot also, i guess this would become a problem if he started cold calling a lot or 3betting.
18/16 is this even tight aggressive? ive always classed these as kinda getting looser but still aggressive, raising too much PF. ??
18/16 is this even tight aggressive? ive always classed these as kinda getting looser but still aggressive, raising too much PF. ??
Yeah would be good to see what we all use as indicators of looseness.
Although i think they will change somewhat through the stakes i guess, at 2nl mine were slightly diferent than they are now.
Mine are currently;
<10 = nit
11-16 = tight
17-21 = not too tight not too loose
22+ loose
Although i think they will change somewhat through the stakes i guess, at 2nl mine were slightly diferent than they are now.
Mine are currently;
<10 = nit
11-16 = tight
17-21 = not too tight not too loose
22+ loose
I guess what I'm looking for is this? All other things being equal with opponents to your left & right who are neither nits or maniacs how much looser are your starting requirements for the CO than the HJ and how much looser is your starting range from the button than the CO?
fx20736 said:
Ahh right, ive been thinking about the HJ and Co one lately myself, it often depends a lot on if someones isolated and the guys to my left when in the HJ but im trying to make it a bit tighter than the Co as i think i may be a bit too happy sometimes to raise stuff like QTo from the HJ, so kinda not raising stuff like this often from the HJ now, I mean id say my HJ range is most pocket pairs, i dont have a set rule for this maybe i should e.g. 55+? ATo possibly, definitely opening AJo, ATs+, KQo, KJs, im not sure whether or not i should be playing things like KJo or ATo but sometimes i will, sometimes i wont. I really dont know if im too loose at the HJ or not....
acky100 said:
UTG, UTG+1: AA KK QQ JJ TT AKs AKo AQs 3.76% of hands
MP1, MP2: AA KK QQ JJ TT 99 88 AKs AKo AQs AQo AJs ATs KQs KJs QJs 7.08% of hands
So MP is almost twice as wide as EP.
Also from UTG Ax hands make up 52% of the range
from MP Ax hands make up 49% of the range.
wrung24 said:
Generally you do have to be tighter at FR and 18/15 is tight for 6max but at micros I think that's more optimal. I play something like 19/17 when I feel I'm playing well.
As you move up you need to open up obv but we're fine for now. I think belgo has been known to play like 19/16 at FR, maybe higher but I could be corrected. It pays to be more aggro as you move up.
Depends on the session but currently all my play is based on trying to get into pots IP (or even OOP depending on the fishiness) against the fish, I open up quite a lot against (maybe too much I have to look at that) and play like a huge nit when I'm up against anybody even remotely tight, except obviously when I'm going for a steal or resteal.
fx20736 said:
Yeah I do fold quite a lot from UTG and MP, but I don't mind playing in a pot OOP against the fishiest players.
Positional stats :
UTG : 11/11
MP : 12/11 (maybe open up a little ?)
CO : 20/17
BTN : 26/22
SB : 21/12 (maybe a little too much cold calling but as I said its usually for a reason)
BB : 11/7