Rob Hobson said:
I think that's an interesting point because it really depends on who they're up against. Against other pros they should bluff a lot more as part of a GTO-type strategy. But when pros are playing against recreational players, they probably shut down their bluffs a lot of the time knowing that they're going to get called too often -- in part for "story equity" 😀 ("I played against Johnny Chan and called because I thought he was bluffing!")
Collin Moshman said:
No, that wouldn't be so bad. I meant that if I didn't connect on the flop then made a weak hand with the turn that probably won't get better at river I would be nervous to get called on a bluff knowning that my hand don't have much showdown value 😛
Guess I'm better at this by now
The bluff, like any other arts, is a skill we can always be improving, guess I'm mastered it a lot since the last time I came here.
If I can give some tip, is just try on your bluffs and you'll lean a lot with your succesfull bluffs, but mainly with your mistakes.
The bluff, like any other arts, is a skill we can always be improving, guess I'm mastered it a lot since the last time I came here.
If I can give some tip, is just try on your bluffs and you'll lean a lot with your succesfull bluffs, but mainly with your mistakes.
The c-bet is classic , so it is 2 more players ok to bluff with cbet but three more players (4 total) no , correct?? It makes sense 🙂
i like the scare card , if you are in the blinds , the pattern is paired , you donk bet or just bet if the all limped (better ) , and you take it there , one good example , or with one player on the turn a scare card to take advantage of , try to scare him out of the hand , very cheaply it's ok for me , dependingly on the foe , that's why good notes come in handy , or good memory , lol
i like the scare card , if you are in the blinds , the pattern is paired , you donk bet or just bet if the all limped (better ) , and you take it there , one good example , or with one player on the turn a scare card to take advantage of , try to scare him out of the hand , very cheaply it's ok for me , dependingly on the foe , that's why good notes come in handy , or good memory , lol
Thank you for day 11. When I just started playing poker, I was more on the bluffing side then playing real poker. After training and following these video's (until now), I'm less bluffing and playing more real poker. Also this results in better stats then before, thank you for that!
However, in the video the last hand, I have a question about this. The play the Hero makes, I do that sometimes. However, if my opponent has the same stack of chips against my 1000 chips (as in the video), the opponent will re raise me. Why should he fold, when he has more chips then I do and he can kick me out of the tournament. What is the best way, to avoid these situations of re-raising from a better stack player.
-> in the video the opponent fold, but low stacks is not that very often the case.
However, in the video the last hand, I have a question about this. The play the Hero makes, I do that sometimes. However, if my opponent has the same stack of chips against my 1000 chips (as in the video), the opponent will re raise me. Why should he fold, when he has more chips then I do and he can kick me out of the tournament. What is the best way, to avoid these situations of re-raising from a better stack player.
-> in the video the opponent fold, but low stacks is not that very often the case.
Players who make wild plays because they have you covered are (generally) making a mistake. Unless it's the bubble or they're exploiting clear risk aversion, they shouldn't raise and reraise you just because they can bust you.
When I say "shouldn't", I mean that if a reraise won't be profitable at a given effective stack, it still won't be profitable if your opponent has a lot more chips and the effective stack stays the same. So don't worry, just focus on identifying player types and responding well to maniacs who are raising/reraising a lot by calling them down much lighter 🙂
When I say "shouldn't", I mean that if a reraise won't be profitable at a given effective stack, it still won't be profitable if your opponent has a lot more chips and the effective stack stays the same. So don't worry, just focus on identifying player types and responding well to maniacs who are raising/reraising a lot by calling them down much lighter 🙂
imnoobpoker said:
Except in bounty tournaments there is no reward for kicking other players out of the tournament. The way, you level up and ultimately win the tournament, is by accumulating chips. Even in bounty tournaments you will often see people getting it in to light, when they can win a bounty, and lose a big chunk of their stack as a result.
Quiz
1, Not really even with your whole range. Straight draws got there but flush draws did not and this card is really good for the opponents range overall and I would be checking with some overpairs, some sets and straights to induce my opponent to bluff.
2. Great scare card to bluff that doesn't complete the flush or give 4 to a straight. If I hit a jack here, I would probably check behind or call a bet.
1, Not really even with your whole range. Straight draws got there but flush draws did not and this card is really good for the opponents range overall and I would be checking with some overpairs, some sets and straights to induce my opponent to bluff.
2. Great scare card to bluff that doesn't complete the flush or give 4 to a straight. If I hit a jack here, I would probably check behind or call a bet.
I had used this (https://www.cardschat.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=299681&stc=1&d=1641824191) as the range of the opponent (question 2 of the quiz) on the river. Some hands suited are only spades (32s, for instance). I think the opponent would've called the c-bet with those hands.
Based on UTG standard range, hero has sets with 9 and 7, overpairs and a lot of overcards.
I didn't change the range after the flop because villain could be slow-playing the turn and playing the river carefully because of the Ace.
Based on that, I did some calculations.
If hero checks, he wins 20% of the time, 32 400.
If hero bets (900, as it was) and villain calls only with Ax, two pairs or straight (32.5% of the combos), hero loses 29 250 and win 109 308, getting 80 058.
This logic is correct? It makes sense?
Based on UTG standard range, hero has sets with 9 and 7, overpairs and a lot of overcards.
I didn't change the range after the flop because villain could be slow-playing the turn and playing the river carefully because of the Ace.
Based on that, I did some calculations.
If hero checks, he wins 20% of the time, 32 400.
If hero bets (900, as it was) and villain calls only with Ax, two pairs or straight (32.5% of the combos), hero loses 29 250 and win 109 308, getting 80 058.
This logic is correct? It makes sense?
