The Seat from Hell- How should I both adjust and say cool?

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  • #1
Got into a very ugly situation that lead to me going from 3rd chip leader to busting right before the bubble. Not sure how much was on me and how much was just bad luck.

I gave DeepSeek this prompt:

When you're playing a poker tournament, and you're the third chip leader but you have the 1st and 2nd to your left and right with 30 players remaining, what are the correct adjustments to make to your range and play?
Having both the #1 and #2 chip stacks on your immediate left and right with 30 left is one of the toughest table dynamics in a tournament. You’re effectively pinned between the two players who can inflict the most damage, while the #1 stack always has position on you. However, you also hold a big stack yourself, so you can’t just nit up completely. The right adjustments blend tight discipline, selective trapping, and exploiting the one spot where you have position.


1. Understand the core problem​

  • #1 stack to your left → always acts after you preflop, always has position postflop. He can 3-bet you light, call in position, and make your life miserable on every street.
  • #2 stack to your right → you have position on him. That’s your main advantage, but the #1 stack behind you acts as a permanent squeeze threat if you merely call.
Because the #1 leader never folds before you act (he’s directly behind), you are vulnerable in every single hand unless he voluntarily folds. Adjust accordingly.


2. Tighten your opening ranges significantly​

Your standard opening ranges must shrink from all positions because the #1 stack can 3-bet with impunity. Focus on hands that can either 4-bet get it in or flop well enough to withstand pressure.

Suggested RFI ranges (30–40 BB effective):

  • UTG/UTG+1: JJ+, AK, AQs (sometimes TT if the table is passive, but not when #1 is active).
  • HJ: TT+, AQ+, AJs+, KQs.
  • CO: 99+, AJ+, ATs+, KJs+, QJs.
  • BTN: 77+, AT+, A9s+, KQ, KTs+, QTs+, JTs.
  • SB: Tighten way up if #2 (BTN) folds and you face #1 in the BB. Open only 88+, AJo+, ATs+, KQ.
If the #1 leader is known to 3-bet very wide (e.g., >15–18%), narrow even further and consider adding limp-re-raises with premiums (see below).


3. Against an open from the #2 stack (on your right): 3-bet or fold​

Flatting the #2 stack’s open is dangerous because it invites the #1 stack to squeeze. Reverse this by almost never having a flatting range – you either 3-bet to isolate or you fold.

3-bet for value: JJ+, AK (and AQs if he opens wide).
Bluff 3-bets: A5s–A2s, KQo, KJs (fold to a 4-bet).
Flatting range: Only as a trap. Mix in flat calls with AA, KK, sometimes AKs/QQ specifically to induce a squeeze from the #1 stack. When he does squeeze, you back‑raise all‑in and put enormous pressure on both big stacks, often winning a huge pot uncontested. Once you show this, the #1 stack will think twice before squeezing light, which lets you flat more speculative hands later.


4. The one safe haven: BB when #2 is in the SB​

If the #2 chip leader is directly to your right, then when you’re in the big blind, he is the small blind. The #1 chip leader is UTG and has already folded if the action is folded to SB. This is a normal blind vs. blind spot with no squeeze threat. You have position postflop and can defend aggressively:

  • Call a SB raise with a wider range: any pair, suited connectors, broadways, some suited gappers.
  • 3-bet light with hands like K5s, Q8s, J9s if the #2 stack folds too often.
This is your best chance to chip up without interference, so exploit it heavily.


5. Trapping with limp‑re‑raises​

When you are in early or middle position and the #1 stack is known to raise behind limpers, you can open‑limp your monsters (AA, KK, sometimes AK) with the intention of re‑raising after the #1 (or #2) stack raises. This completely neutralises the positional disadvantage and lets you build a huge pot with the best hand. Just be careful to balance occasionally with a speculative hand if you think they’ll catch on, but in a 30‑player tournament setting, you won’t have to do it often.


6. Postflop simplicity​

Postflop, you’ll often be out of position against the #1 stack. Don’t try to out‑play him with marginal holdings.

  • Bet for value strongly with your good hands – big stacks love to call.
  • Pot‑control with medium strength hands; check/call rather than bet/fold when you have showdown value.
  • Minimise bluffing: the #1 leader can float or raise with a wide range, exploiting his position. Bluff only on boards that heavily favour your range (e.g., high cards when you opened from early position).
Against the #2 stack when you do see a flop in position, you can apply standard pressure – c‑bet when he shows weakness, float in position, and take advantage of his stack size by threatening his tournament life on scary boards.


7. ICM and stack‑depth considerations​

With 30 players left, the real money is still a way off, so ICM pressure is moderate. However, as the third‑biggest stack, your primary goal is chip preservation when facing the only two players who can bust you.

  • If you have 40 BB+, you can afford to 4‑bet shove over #1’s 3‑bets with a merged range (JJ+/AK and some A5s/ATs bluffs) when his frequency is high.
  • If you drop to 20–25 BB, switch to a push/fold strategy: open‑jam from late position with a reasonably wide range when both leaders are yet to act, but still keep it tight from early positions.
  • Recognise that the two big stacks might try to “team up” to pressure you. Do not get drawn into a levelling war without a hand. Let them have small pots; you’ll get your chance when you wake up with premiums.

Summary of key adjustments​



SituationAdjustment
Opening from any position with #1 still to actTighten dramatically; use limp‑re‑raise traps with monsters
Facing an open from #2 (on your right)3‑bet or fold; never flat except to induce a #1 squeeze with AA/KK
In the blindsWhen BB and #2 is SB, attack aggressively; otherwise, proceed with extreme caution
Postflop against #1Value‑bet relentlessly, minimal bluffing, pot‑control middling hands
Exploiting fearYour stack is also threatening. The #1 and #2 do not want to double you up, so you have fold equity when you apply maximum pressure with believable lines
While the answer was in depth, it was pretty unsatisfying, the only thing that I think I didn't do properly in the game was #4. I was too nitty in the BB because they had me covered. I honestly think the thing that hurt me the most was the mental aspect and the very last point on 'Exploiting fear' might have been helpful. Going from being the bully at the table, chipping up using ICM as a weapon and stealing relentlessly to being stuck in jail forced to nit it up was torture and felt so unfair. I know table movements are random but it felt personal lol

Also, the last subpoint in section 2 seems way off and I'm curious what you all think "SB: Tighten way up if #2 (BTN) folds and you face #1 in the BB. Open only 88+, AJo+, ATs+, KQ." Having a tighter range blind vs blind seems insane to me and comes off as a hallucination. What do you think of the AI output and what would you add/change?
 
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Lodestone

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  • #2
This was the cherry on top:
aqf9mg.jpg
 
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  • #3
There's no need to inflate pots without a clear advantage, as your main goal is to preserve your stack and dominate, not just double up.Use your chip advantage by continuation betting and putting pressure on opponents who are rarely willing to go all-in.
 
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  • #4
Analyze each spot, keeping icm implications in mind, looking for exploits, etc. etc. a.k.a. 'Don't fck it up. It's the bubble ffs'
 
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finaltable1

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  • #5
The FOLD button is the best "money printer" during the "bubble" stage of important tournaments.
Several times in my life in high buy-in tournaments ($55+, which is above my average) I've folded aces on the bubble, and I"ve folded KK/QQ/AK numerous times. About 50% of the time I was right because I wouldnt have won at the showdown. However in almost all of those cases I didnt bust on the bubble!

Don't take on "risky spots." If you have large and likely aggressive stacks sitting behind you, its better to relax and give the gambler in you a little rest :D

AA, KK, VPiP 5, 7, 12 = not a guarantee,
fold and let smaller stacks bust before you = guarantee
 
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Sunz of Beaches

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  • #6
finaltable1 said:
The FOLD button is the best "money printer" during the "bubble" stage of important tournaments.
Several times in my life in high buy-in tournaments ($55+, which is above my average) I've folded aces on the bubble, and I"ve folded KK/QQ/AK numerous times. About 50% of the time I was right because I wouldnt have won at the showdown. However in almost all of those cases I didnt bust on the bubble!

Don't take on "risky spots." If you have large and likely aggressive stacks sitting behind you, its better to relax and give the gambler in you a little rest :D

AA, KK, VPiP 5, 7, 12 = not a guarantee,
fold and let smaller stacks bust before you = guarantee
Well folding aces pre on the bubble of a normal tournament is actually not something to be proud of. Imo it only displays that you are playing scared money.

But ok if a mincash means everything then do it but u wont play for the win or a decent position this way in most cases.

And no, it does definitely not mean u "were right" only because u would have lost at showdown. Thats very results oriented thinking. Those were bad/scared folds in the right moment nothing else.
 
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  • #7
Personally, I think that if you get big hands, it's the right thing to do to go aggressive, even on the bubble. If you say you were eliminated in three hands, then unfortunately luck wasn't on your side.
 
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  • #8
Sunz of Beaches said:
Well folding aces pre on the bubble of a normal tournament is actually not something to be proud of. Imo it only displays that you are playing scared money.

But ok if a mincash means everything then do it but u wont play for the win or a decent position this way in most cases.

And no, it does definitely not mean u "were right" only because u would have lost at showdown. Thats very results oriented thinking. Those were bad/scared folds in the right moment nothing else.
Correct! its results-oriented thinking. And the goal is to squeeze as much money out of it all as possible.

My buy-in is from the freeroll to 22, so if I win a 109 ticket in a satellite, i'll use it for the bounty KO tournament, not a mystery bounty ofc, just a regular KO. So in the situation described by the TS it's highly likely that i'll be sitting there with a decent bounty on my head and calling ranges of bigger stacks will be extremely wide.

I am well aware of ICM pressure and the bubble factor, and for buy-ins above my average level, in the situations TS describes, i prefer to avoid gambling at all. Speaking objectively, in an online MTT with a $109 buy-in, the difference between +$100 and +0 will be 10-20 minutes or ~1-2 rounds which is ~4bb damage for my stack.

In the past i've won and made the final table multiple times having a stack of 3bbs or less ITM. You wont have the same experience and stories as often if you will play mathematically correctly, showing AA on the bubble and losing to a hand like QJ, BUT once in a while you will have a funny story about a bad beat on the bubble. AA is not a guarantee, it's ~80% equity pre, it's huge, but not a guarantee. It all comes down to what outcome you want to achieve. what do you prefer? Winning chips 80% of the time or winning an extra hundred dollar bill 98% of the time? keep in mind that bigger stack never guarantees a bigger win... it increases your odds, but it never guarantees it.

In this case, the math can be ignored OR divided into different levels. The first level is 50/50: you either win the hand and chips (80% probability) and continue playing, or you lose and win nothing. So, the 1st step of math only shows us 2 possible outcomes (let's ignore the draw). The second step of the math involves your hand against your opponents range, and its likely that you're ahead by 60%... 80/20... with your pocket aces... The third step of the math involves the flop, turn, and river, and here the equity can change dramatically... So, the end result depends on the level of the math you trust. Look what's written on the dollar bill :) "IN FOLD WE TRUST" )))) Fold prints money in this case, it ignores the 50/50, it ignores the 80/20, it ignores postflop action, it just prints money. It can't be a bad or scared fold, its just a correct fold. Your main goals in MTT are to stay in the game and win the money. Sure, you can put maximum pressure on deep-stacked players and go all-in with aces, but that doesn't change much. In regular MTTs where bounties arent factored in this makes a big difference, but lets say in those Mystery madness games, it's highly likely that your allin preflop will trigger a meat grinder, i mean a real bloodbath, a 3rd world war, an explosion in the galaxy :)

I wouldn't play the same way in an $11 buy-in MTT just because the value of winning 1 extra buyin is 10 times less.

This is due to the situation described by the TS, there are more options if you have 1 short stacked player behind you, or if the players with deep stacks are playing tightly, etc. After all you're 3rd in chips there just relax and sit back, you can't bully anyone in this spot, the cards dont matter anymore, all that matters is the tilt level of the remaining players and time, you can't control any of it, you cant control luck, aces, kings, showdowns e.t.c. but you can control a fold. It's stocism, it's discipline, it's ev+
 
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  • #9
Prahlad had it right there are times when you need "to practice avoidance".

You pay enough taxes, so you want to avoid paying the icm tax.

The "ICM tax" refers to the fact that losing chips in a tournament is often more detrimental than gaining an equal amount is beneficial. When you are at a final table or near the money.
 
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  • #10
finaltable1 said:
Correct! its results-oriented thinking. And the goal is to squeeze as much money out of it all as possible.

My buy-in is from the freeroll to 22, so if I win a 109 ticket in a satellite, i'll use it for the bounty KO tournament, not a mystery bounty ofc, just a regular KO. So in the situation described by the TS it's highly likely that i'll be sitting there with a decent bounty on my head and calling ranges of bigger stacks will be extremely wide.

I am well aware of ICM pressure and the bubble factor, and for buy-ins above my average level, in the situations TS describes, i prefer to avoid gambling at all. Speaking objectively, in an online MTT with a $109 buy-in, the difference between +$100 and +0 will be 10-20 minutes or ~1-2 rounds which is ~4bb damage for my stack.

In the past i've won and made the final table multiple times having a stack of 3bbs or less ITM. You wont have the same experience and stories as often if you will play mathematically correctly, showing AA on the bubble and losing to a hand like QJ, BUT once in a while you will have a funny story about a bad beat on the bubble. AA is not a guarantee, it's ~80% equity pre, it's huge, but not a guarantee. It all comes down to what outcome you want to achieve. what do you prefer? Winning chips 80% of the time or winning an extra hundred dollar bill 98% of the time? keep in mind that bigger stack never guarantees a bigger win... it increases your odds, but it never guarantees it.

In this case, the math can be ignored OR divided into different levels. The first level is 50/50: you either win the hand and chips (80% probability) and continue playing, or you lose and win nothing. So, the 1st step of math only shows us 2 possible outcomes (let's ignore the draw). The second step of the math involves your hand against your opponents range, and its likely that you're ahead by 60%... 80/20... with your pocket aces... The third step of the math involves the flop, turn, and river, and here the equity can change dramatically... So, the end result depends on the level of the math you trust. Look what's written on the dollar bill :) "IN FOLD WE TRUST" )))) Fold prints money in this case, it ignores the 50/50, it ignores the 80/20, it ignores postflop action, it just prints money. It can't be a bad or scared fold, its just a correct fold. Your main goals in MTT are to stay in the game and win the money. Sure, you can put maximum pressure on deep-stacked players and go all-in with aces, but that doesn't change much. In regular MTTs where bounties arent factored in this makes a big difference, but lets say in those Mystery madness games, it's highly likely that your allin preflop will trigger a meat grinder, i mean a real bloodbath, a 3rd world war, an explosion in the galaxy :)

I wouldn't play the same way in an $11 buy-in MTT just because the value of winning 1 extra buyin is 10 times less.

This is due to the situation described by the TS, there are more options if you have 1 short stacked player behind you, or if the players with deep stacks are playing tightly, etc. After all you're 3rd in chips there just relax and sit back, you can't bully anyone in this spot, the cards dont matter anymore, all that matters is the tilt level of the remaining players and time, you can't control any of it, you cant control luck, aces, kings, showdowns e.t.c. but you can control a fold. It's stocism, it's discipline, it's ev+
Can you share your sharkscope for your preferred site? You have your profile set to private.
 
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  • #11
Lodestone said:
Got into a very ugly situation that lead to me going from 3rd chip leader to busting right before the bubble. Not sure how much was on me and how much was just bad luck.

I gave DeepSeek this prompt:

When you're playing a poker tournament, and you're the third chip leader but you have the 1st and 2nd to your left and right with 30 players remaining, what are the correct adjustments to make to your range and play?

While the answer was in depth, it was pretty unsatisfying, the only thing that I think I didn't do properly in the game was #4. I was too nitty in the BB because they had me covered. I honestly think the thing that hurt me the most was the mental aspect and the very last point on 'Exploiting fear' might have been helpful. Going from being the bully at the table, chipping up using ICM as a weapon and stealing relentlessly to being stuck in jail forced to nit it up was torture and felt so unfair. I know table movements are random but it felt personal lol

Also, the last subpoint in section 2 seems way off and I'm curious what you all think "SB: Tighten way up if #2 (BTN) folds and you face #1 in the BB. Open only 88+, AJo+, ATs+, KQ." Having a tighter range blind vs blind seems insane to me and comes off as a hallucination. What do you think of the AI output and what would you add/change?
In that kind of spot, I would probably just tighten up a lot and fold my way into the money. Its not the most exciting strategy, but sometimes survival is the smartest play, especially when i would be in your shoes. Another option is just waiting it out and hoping for a table change where those big stacks arent around anymore.

Honestly, I have been on the wrong end of this plenty of times. Its always frustrating getting close to the money and then busting with premium hands like AA or KK. You feel like you did everything right, got it in good, and still end up out. Thats just poker, though. Variance can be brutal, especially near the bubble, so sometimes playing it safe is worth it, especially in your unique situation. ;)
 
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  • #12
Lodestone said:
Can you share your sharkscope for your preferred site? You have your profile set to private.
In my case sharkcopse displays inaccurate data. Last time i've checked my stats looked good, roi and itm around ~20, but they're actually completely wrong. The reality is that many years ago i deposited around $20-50 into 4 poker sites and since then, I've been cashing out several thousand a year from each site.
freerolls, giveaways, satellites, I rarely buy-in directly, maybe on weekends or during festivals.

I mean, for example, since the beginning of the year, I've probably won more than 2K worth of tickets, some of which were won in freerolls, some in giveaways on Discord and Twitch. Let's say Ive won and cashed out a total of 5K during that time, and spent less than 1K on direct buy-ins. Sharkscope will calculate some stats, and they might look pretty or they might not... it doesn't matter. A $320 ticket won in a freeroll and used in a MTT where i didn't win anything has less of a meaning for my wallet than a $130 win from a straight $5 buy-in. BUT for sharkscope, everything counts toward the overall stats. All sorts of promotions outside of the poker site, where they just send me tickets or money... CardsChat freerolls and others... It creates a certain picture of me as a player, but its completely false. At the end of the day i'm only interested in the quantity and quality of cashouts, there is no point in looking at my stats or sharing them.


Found few screenshots from a WhatsApp chat...

5208439031375534427

5210690831189217273

Untitled

End

So, what will my ROI be just from this Sunday MTT? If I played it ~100 times, hit final table ~10 times, won it once about month ago, 2nd place also once, cashed many times. 30% of the time I played it for free, about 60% of the time with a ticket won in a satellite, which was often also won in a freeroll, rest - direct buyin.
 
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MK_

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  • #13
I not reading AI.... no just no, if you really want an honest answer that relates to your

game and decisions post some hands to get accurate responses from real players as

to how much was on you and how much was just bad luck👍
 
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  • #14
MK_ said:
I not reading AI.... no just no, if you really want an honest answer that relates to your

game and decisions post some hands to get accurate responses from real players as

to how much was on you and how much was just bad luck👍
I tried to go back but for some reason I couldn't find the hands from earlier in the tourney. The first ones I could find were already after I lost a good chunk of my stack. I'm not sure why PP makes hand histories hard.
 
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